Use USB-C PD to power non-USB-C devices with VFLEX - My Thoughts

Disclosure of Material Connection: Thanks to Werewolf for the free products. I was not required to write a review and did not give the company a chance to review my blog post prior to posting it. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission's requirements.

I recently ran across a giveaway on Reddit ( r/UsbcHardware ) for a product called VFLEX.  For the giveaway, they were giving one of the "base" units and a DIY adapter - you just had to pay shipping which I was happy to do.  I reached out to the company and they decided to throw in some extra items.

So first, let's get to the main product.  There are two key aspects:

• VFLEX Base: A small adapter that basically negotiates the voltage you ask it to using the USB-C Power Delivery (PD) protocol.  Of course this means the power source, the VFLEX base and the power supply have to support the voltage you are requesting.
• Adapter cable: The swappable cable can support many types of barrel plugs, and they have one with +/- level terminals for DIY situations.

Nifty little storage case with 3 base units

Various barrel plugs and the DIY adapter

So how did I test it?  Here was my generic approach:

• Using an Android app, I configured the target voltage on the base unit.  It seems other options (iOS, iPadOS, MacOS and web) are supported to configure the base unit.  Most of the devices I tested used 12V, but I did test other voltages.  
• I connected the VFLEX adapter (and a USB-C power/volt meter) to the power supply to confirm the correct voltage was negotiated.
• I connected the appropriate adapter cable to the base then plugged it into the device.

Below is the list of devices I tested and any notes

• GL-iNet Marble (GL-B3000) home wireless router
• GL-iNet Flint 3 (GL-BE9300) home wireless router
• Dell Latitude 5590
• The laptop requires 19.5V. While this voltage can technically be negotiated exactly using PPS (Programmable Power Supply), my specific power source was limited to fixed voltage rails, so I configured the VFLEX for 20V. While the VFLEX negotiated 20V successfully, the laptop limited current to ~1A. This seems to be a known Dell behavior; their laptops look for a proprietary signal from the original power brick’s ID pin. Without it, the laptop throttles charging speed as a safety measure. Verdict: Not a VFLEX limitation, but a Dell quirk to keep in mind.
• Fujitsu Lifebook E546
• BMAX B1 Mini (mini pc)
• 12V DC brushless fan (old PC case fan) at 5V and 12V using the DIY adapter
• External 2.5" USB HD enclosures ( Inateck FE2007 and one other model )
• Blood pressure monitor (which was handy because the batteries were dead and I didn't have spares handy)

BMAX B1 Mini PC

GL-iNet Flint 3 router running from a battery pack

Fan connected to the DIY adapter

Ultimately, I was able to power every device I tested with no issue.  While the Dell laptop test didn't pull enough current, it seems to be due to how Dell handles their power adapters so I don't see it as a VFLEX limitation.

So bottom line, the VFLEX product is a great way to use USB-C power for devices that don't normally use USB-C power.  Why would you need this?

• Reduce the amount of power bricks you take on travel or to remote work locations
• Power devices from your car (or USB battery bank)
• Replace damaged or missing power adapters

Also based on some high level research of my own, I wanted to share some insights on voltages you can get based on the USB PD protocol (but it also depends on what the power source allows).  I just focused on voltage but you also need to consider current for high current loads (seems 3A or lower is general supported).  Consider this unofficial and do your own research to verify as needed.  Always double-check your device’s requirements before plugging it in. Sending higher voltage than a device can support can result in a very bad day!

• USB PD 1.0 supports 5V, 12V and 20V
• USB PD 2.0 supports 5V, 9V, 15V and 20V
• 12V not required but optionally supported as a fixed voltage profile
• USB PD 3.0 supports 5V, 9V, 15V and 20V
• (Optional) 12V fixed voltage profile
• (Optional) Programmable Power Supply (PPS) supports 3.3V to 21V
• USB PD 3.1 supports 5V, 9V, 15V and 20V
• (Optional) 12V fixed voltage profile
• (Optional) PPS supports 3.3V to 21V
• (Optional) Extended Power Range (EPR) adds 28V, 36V and 48V.  EPR with Adjustable Voltage Supply (AVS) can support a range from 15V to whatever max is supported (28V/36V/48V) based on current.

Remember, the information above is just on the protocol you will need to check the specifications of your specific source to determine what it can support.  Also, it is important to note that any device you connect will get 5V power until the correct voltage is negotiated (or it will stay at 5V) but most devices can handle undervoltage.

This is a full list of what was sent to me:

• VFLEX Starter Kit
• 9 different adapter cables with various barrel plug sizes.
• Note: On their website you can buy multiple adapters in a pack (Adapter Pack 1 and Adapter Pack 2), but most of my devices used an adapter from Pack 1.
• 3 base units
• A super handy storage case with 2 compartments so the cables fit nicely in the bottom
• DIY Adapter
• A tiny 30W single port charger
• Supports 5V/9V/12V/15V/20V with a variable PPS range of 5V to 16V
• A dual port 70W charger which was way smaller than I expected
• Supports 5V/9V/12V/15V/20V with a variable PPS range of 5V to 11V
• 10000 mAh magnetic charging bank that works great on my Pixel 9 Pro XL
• Supports 5V/9V/12V with a variable PPS range of 5V to 12V

Battery pack on my Pixel 9 Pro XL with UAG magnetic case

Bottom line: If you’re looking to declutter your "drawer of random power bricks" or want a way to power non-USB devices from a USB-C PD source, the VFLEX is an elegant solution. Whether you’re a hobbyist using the DIY terminals or a traveler trying to pack light, this belongs in your tech bag.  Grab the base + DIY adapter giveaway option (if it is available) and toss in "Adapter Pack 1" as a good start or just go all-in with the VFLEX Starter Kit.

Werewolf page: https://werewolf.us/

VFLEX Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tundralabs/vflex

VFLEX + DIY Adapter: https://werewolf.us/products/vflex-diy-adapter

Synology Virtual DSM (vDSM) Setup

I recently purchased a Synology NAS ( model DS220+ ), check out my initial thoughts post for a background on why I got one.  When you purchase a DS220+, you get a free license to run a Virtual DSM.

As the name implies, the Virtual DiskStation Manager (vDSM) is a virtual DSM instance that you can run on your Synology NAS.  I will admit that I don't have a solid use case for a vDSM yet, so at this point I just want to set one up to try the process and have it available.  As a note, I have upgraded my DS220+ so I have a total of 10GB of RAM.

Here are the high level setup steps:

1. Install "Virtual Machine Manager" (VMM)
2. Run VMM, go through initial setup wizard.
3. In VMM, Create the image
1. Go to Image > DSM Image and click "Add" to create an image.
2. Click "Download Virtual DSM image" and download
3. Click Next, choose your host and click "Done"
4. The "Status" should start with "Downloading", wait until "Status" shows "Healthy"
4. In VMM, create the VM
1. Go to "Virtual Machine" > Create and choose "Synology Virtual DSM"
2. Recommend name it something like "vDSM", use 1 CPU and 2GB of ram.
3. For this test I just put 100GB for Virtual Disk 1 and use most of the defaults.
4. I left Autostart as "No", I am sure I can change it later.
5. Wait until "Status" shows "Powered off"
5. In VMM, start your VM
1. Click "Power on" for vDSM (or whatever you named it).
2. Choose "Use existing license" since your NAS includes 1 free license.
3. Once the status says "Running" wait until you see an IP assigned.
4. Go to ( http://<ip address>:5000/ )
5. Setup your new vDSM!

That is it.  You have a vDSM setup for whatever use case you come up with.  Some ideas I might try:

• Mirror my basic configuration to test production updates
• Test beta apps
• Isolate services that are open to the internet directly

Synology DS220+ NAS - Initial Thoughts

Like most people that have a homelab setup, I have played with various approaches to network storage.  I have tried things like TrueNAS, a SMB share on my Rasperry Pi 4 and even using the network sharing feature of my GL-iNet router but I also have been looking at consumer NAS devices like Synology.

So why buy a product and not build my own?  I view my home network as supporting two goals: First I have my homelab goals, which has things my Proxmox setup and other stuff that I mess with just for fun.  Second I have the production goals, stuff like family entertainment devices and other things that just need to work.  So I wanted to get a NAS, but I wanted something that worked without constant tinkering so that I could support both production and homelab goals.

I did look at various vendors, but settled on Synology because the software seemed mature compared to other offerings.  Since the NAS would be sort of a starter for learning, I decided to get a 2-bay device and started to look at the various options/models.  Here are some of the variants I looked at:

• The "j" series like the current DS223j, but I decided not to go that route because those have low RAM and seem to be underpowered.
• The non-plus models like the current "DS223" that are better than the "j" series but seem to be lacking some features of the plus model.
• The plus models like the current "DS224+" and "DS225+" that seem to the best of the 2 bay options.

I decided to go with an older plus model, and actually found a really good deal on a DS220+.

Setting up the NAS was pretty simple, and I was up and running very quicky.  After just two days of use, I wanted to share my initial thoughts and some key features/aspects that I have configured.

• Setup SMB shares.  I would say this is the primary use case for any NAS, so it was a given that I would setup/use this first.  It works as expected, which is good.
• Configure "home" drive for users.  The NAS can support multiple users, and creates a "home" drive for user to store their own files/photos.  It was easy to setup, and will likely make future use by family members even easier.
• Setup two internal drives using Synology Hybrid RAID (SHR)-1 raid.
• You can actually setup SHR-1 with a single drive (no redundancy) and then add another drive for redundancy (basically equivalent to RAID 1, mirroring) which is what I did in my initial setup.
• One thing to keep in mind, the storage will be limited by the smaller drive so (as an example) if you have a 1TB and 3TB drive then the usable space is only 1TB.
• Setup two external USB drives.  I have a USB 3 dock that allows you to dock two drives (either 2.5" or 3.5") which is a pretty nice way to connect external storage.
• Setup QuickConnect ID.  Basically this is an easy to access your NAS from an external network.  I know most homelab/power users will consider other options (Tailscale or their own VPN setup) but this approach allows an easy option to get up and running and works with various mobile apps.
• Setup Cloud Sync.  I created a specific folder on my Google Drive and OneDrive, and have that folder sync to my NAS so I have an easy way to determine which files I want on my NAS but also mirrored on my cloud storage.  This approach was mainly for testing, 
• Setup "Log Center" to view logs, pretty simple but you can also have other devices send their logs to your NAS which is neat.
• Setup "Synology Drive" basically think something like a Google Drive or OneDrive client for accessing your files.
• Setup "Synology Photos", which is something like Google Photos backup but doesn't seem to have as many features.  It does support some AI features like determining faces which is neat, but I need to keep testing/using the app to better understand the features.
• Setup "USB Copy".
• As a test, I setup some tasks to mirror certain folders to external USB drives and it seems to work fine.
• While I didn't use the feature, the NAS has a hardware "Copy" button on the front.  The idea is that you can insert a USB drive, then hit "copy" to save a copy of everything on the drive to the NAS.  While I don't know if I have a use case for this, it would be an interesting way to keep copies of files from something like a digital camera.
• Setup "Hyper Backup" to testing backing up my NAS information to one of the external USB drives.

Bottom line: I am glad that I decided to grab a Synology DS220+ NAS, and just based on my initial testing I think it will support my goals and still allow for some tinkering.

Synology Page: https://www.synology.com/
Synology Hybrid RAID (SHR) info: https://kb.synology.com/en-us/DSM/tutorial/What_is_Synology_Hybrid_RAID_SHR

Bambu Lab A1 Mini 3D Printer - My Thoughts

For Christmas, I got a Bambu Lab A1 Mini 3D printer.  I am not going to focus on a full product review ( there are plenty online ) or unboxing notes, I am just going to focus on my experience with it so far.

I have had the A1 mini for just over 2 weeks now, and it has been amazing.  I'll share a list of (almost) everything I have printed so far at the end of this article, but high level there are 3 sources I have used:

1) In the Bambu Handy (mobile) app you can browse a huge collection of prints from their MakerWorld ( https://makerworld.com/ ) site.  Just browse what they have or search for certain keywords, and chances are you can find something to print that you will like.

2) If you can't find what you need on MakerWorld, it is possible that someone else already designed what you need and posted it in another location.  You can do a google search and often come up with the files you need.  You can import those files into Bambu Studio (desktop app) to make it work, but might need to do some tweaking on settings.  I would get familiar with printing items using method #1 first before you start down this path.

3) All else fails, you might have to do your own design.  There are plenty of tools out there that you can use to make 3D designs and create the files you will need.  This is definitely an advanced level of the 3D printing process, but likely something you will sooner or later want to get into.

For me, I have printed from all 3 categories.  One thing I have really enjoyed is printing items that my family members could find useful and/or want.

A few main tips I want to share for new people:

• Watch videos and read online for starter tips.
• Join a group on Reddit/Facebook (or both) to start seeing common issues / tips.
• Pay attention to print times and how much material will be used.
• Keep your plate clean, it seems to help avoid issues based on everything I have read.
• Take a look at my upgrades (list below) for ideas on possible improvements.
• Keep an eye on your print jobs (especially the first few layers) and the filament to make sure it didn't get loose where it could get tangled, I had two failures because of filament getting tangled and now I pay attention to that issue.
• When feeding the filament, it might get "stuck" in the tube and not feed.  I know it sounds odd, but pushing with some pressure will make a "click" noise and allow the filament to feed.  I saw this tip somewhere, and it helped me figure out feed issues.

Here is a full list of items I have printed broken out by category:

Upgrades for the A1 Mini ( Link to collection )

• Bambu Scraper Grip - The printer came with a blade for a scraper but you had to print and build the handle, I recommend doing this as one of your first prints.
• Universal Filament Clip v3 - This is a simple and useful way to clip the filament to the spool.
• PTFE / Cable Clips - This helps keep your cables tidy.
• A1 mini lube helper - I haven't used this but saw it on another video as a useful print.
• Poop bucket - Yes I know it sounds odd, but the A1 mini has print waste (which the community calls poop) and you need a way to catch it to avoid a mess.  This little removable bucket makes it easy to dump, and could remove the bucket and put a larger catch under it.  There are many different solutions/designs but I liked this one the most.
• Wyze Cam mount - I had a spare Wyze V2 cam to monitor my print jobs.  I know the printer has a built-in camera, but many people have suggested using an external one.
• Filament tangle prevention - I actually had one or two issues related to the filament getting tangles, and this item should help prevent that.

Other random items from MakerWorld ( Link to collection )

• Boat Model 010 - A little wind-up motor kit, the motor came with the printer and I printed the boat parts
• Wireless Mouse 002 - A kit my wife got me with the 3D printer, it comes with the internal components for a wireless mouse and you print the shell.  I actually use the mouse daily now.
• Pixel Watch Charging Stand - Nifty little stand for my Pixel Watch 2
• Phone Charge Port Dust and Lint Cleaner - Simple print, I didn't really need it but why not!
• Articulate Hate Snake (Traffic Cone) - Neat design my kiddo wanted printed
• Dragon Smoke Bookmark - Neat design for my wife.  This was a bit trickier since I had to load it in Bambu Studio to add a pause so I could swap filament since it was two color.
• Mayor Snake - The traffic cone was nice and all, but the mayor had a huge top hat.
• Wood-carved puppy - Kiddo request
• Sink Hole Cover - I had a hole in the kitchen sink that was unused, now it is covered.
• Headset Holder - Nice spot to hang my headset on my desk.
• Great Dane Low Poly model - Just a cool Great Dane design.
• Lightweight stands for graded cards - This was too small for my Beckett slab but still nice.
• Beckett Graded TCG Slab holder - Perfect size for my Beckett slab (thicker than PSA slabs from what I can tell)
• DSI XL Replacement Stylus - This was a waste, only because the person who asked for it told me the wrong Nintendo DS model!

Other random items not from MakerWorld

• Circuit Playground Express (CPX) Mount - A neat little mount for the CPX board
• 3DS XL Stylus - I couldn't find a design for the 3DS on MakerWorld, but I found it on another site and then added it to MakerWorld ( https://makerworld.com/en/models/981153 ).

My own design

• Small box - This was part of a tutorial for doing your own designs using Autodesk Fusion
• Toy plug - The first design I did 100% myself.  I took measurements, designed it in Autodesk Fusion and printed it out.  Worked great!  I posted it on MakerWorld just because I felt it was cool that I did my own design ( https://makerworld.com/en/models/971736 ).

Bottom line: If you are looking for a 3D printer, the Bambu Lab A1 mini is a great product.  It has limitations on item size, but you have to start somewhere.

Homelab - XCP-ng

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have started to play around with things tied to the idea of "homelab" setups.  I am not going to go into detail on what equipment I have, you can check out my other post here ( https://bigboystoys13.blogspot.com/2024/08/my-homelab-equipment.html ) for more information.

One of the cool things about the HP Envy desktop computer that I am using is that you can easily "hide" certain drives via the BIOS.  This makes it to do testing where you want to ensure certain drives can't be impacted.  I decided to setup XCP-ng on my machine, while keeping the Windows OS and Proxmox available.  My earlier post has details on my Proxmox setup.

Here is my approach (my HP Envy has 5 internal drives right now):

• For Windows, I have a 256GB SSD and 1TB HDD.
• For Proxmox, I have a 3TB HDD.
• For XCP-ng, I have 256GB SSD.

Using the BIOS ability to hide certain internal (SATA) drives, I can basically hide the drives not being used.  So when I want to use XCP-ng, I hide the other drives.  While I can't easily swap between the systems (like you can a dual boot setup) it helps ensure I don't mess up one environment while using the another.

I actually tried XCP-ng first (before I decided to start making blog posts about the homelab stuff), then tried Proxmox.  While I am starting to like Proxmox, I decided to give XCP-ng another try.

Out of the box, Proxmox was easier.  You just install and can hit the server directly via a web link.  With TCP-ng you have to install a virtual machine that will act as configuration interface.  I do like that you can find a Windows client for XCP-ng, which I don't think exists for Proxmox.

Once I setup XCP-ng, I setup a VM for an Ubuntu workstation which was pretty easy to do.  After that, I made sure the host itself wasn't using the GPU card and then configured the Ubuntu host to use the GPU card.  I also configured USB passthrough for the keyboard and mouse ( https://docs.xcp-ng.org/compute/#passing-through-keyboards-and-mice has useful info ).

So think of it this way:

• I power up my computer.
• XCP-ng loads
• Ubuntu VM auto-starts
• Ubuntu loads up on the local computer

So basically I would be Ubuntu as a desktop OS, but it is running on XCP-ng which could also have other virtual systems running on it.  Unfortunately I couldn't get Ubuntu working on this setup, and I gave up on trying.  For now I am going to focus on Proxmox.