Pixel 6 Pro - My thoughts

I didn't plan to do a review of the Pixel 6 Pro, there are plenty reviews out there.  If you are looking for a review, I would check out the review from MB here ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hvjBi4PKWA ).  He actually gave the "Value Award" for 2021 to the Pixel 6 (regular not the Pro).

So instead of a generic review, I am just going to share what drove me to purchase it and my thoughts on it so far.  As a little background if you know me, or at least have looked at my blog, you know I like technology.  My current phone is a Pixel 6 Pro, before that I had:

OnePlus 8T+ 5G

Samsung Galaxy S9 Plus

When I had the S9 Plus, I was interested in something with a little less bloat and more "pure" Google experience.  I ended up getting a great deal (basically free) on the OnePlus 8T+ 5G, so I went for it.  While I did enjoy the phone and new interface, the updates still had lags and everything I read made it seem like OnePlus was moving away from the "different" company that attracted people to it.

So to get into it here are some of the reasons I ended up going with the Pixel 6 Pro:

Updates: I get the latest OS upgrades and security patches faster than any other Android device ( in theory at least ).  No middle man by the vendor and/or carrier to get in the way.  When the December 2021 update came up, I just side loaded it myself instead of waiting on the OTA push.

Google Tensor: Google custom designed processor.  Why does this matter?  They can focus on adjusting the processor performance to match the OS and the experience they want to provide.  It isn't all about benchmarks.  Along with the Tensor chip, they have added some hardware security (like Titan M2 security).  For the average person this doesn't matter, but it is good to see Google focus on security.

Real Tone: To use Google's own words "Google’s mission to make our camera and image products work more equitably for people of color."  Now, I will be honest it isn't like I take photos all the time but the principal here is what got me.  Google took a problem that people knew existing, got the right people to help consult the issue and came up with a solution.  At the end of the day, most people use their phone camera to capture a moment and they want to be able to look back on it and smile - not think about how the camera didn't capture the moment well.

Cool features: Some of the stuff on the Pixel 6 is just neat.  A few examples:

- Magic Eraser: Just the other day, I used Magic Eraser to remove a person from a photo so it could be used online.  At first I figured it was just a cool feature I wouldn't get practical use from, but I can see the value after having used it.

- Call Screening: Pretty simple, when someone calls you they are asked why they are calling and that information shows up on your screen.

- Hold for me: When you get put on hold Google can basically listen for you and let you know when someone is ready to talk.

- Direct my call: When you call a business with a voice prompt, like "Press 1 for sales, Press 2 for..." a menu shows up on your phone with the options.  It might not seem like much, but it helps you avoid having to repeat the options.

- Safety features: I haven't played with these much, but it has some interesting personal safety features.  For example, it has car crash detection.  If it detects a crash, it checks to see if you are ok.  If you don't respond, it will call 911 and share your location.  It also has a "Safety check" option, let's say you go out for a walk.  You can program it to check with you in a certain amount of time (for example 1 hour), if you don't respond it will notify whoever you set as safety contacts and they will get your location too.

The list above isn't a full list, just the things I noticed or paid attention to.  If photos are important to you, make sure you read up on the features / reviews but overall the review seem positive.

I am very happy with my decision to shift to Pixel 6 Pro.  If you are looking to get one, read up on the reviews and focus on what is important to you.

Useful links:

Google Pixel 6 Pro Product Page: https://store.google.com/product/pixel_6_pro

Google Real Tone: https://store.google.com/intl/en/discover/realtone/

TextNow Nationwide Talk & Text Plan Review

I recently upgraded to a Pixel 6 Pro, so my OnePlus 8T became a spare phone.  I don’t remember if I was researching eSIM / SIMs, or just trying to find ideas on how to use my old phone, but I ended up stumbling upon TextNow.  I was aware of TextNow but I wasn’t aware of the cell service they provide.

They provide a “Nationwide Talk & Text” cell phone service for free.  Yes free, other than the cost of the SIM (assuming you have a compatible phone).  My first reaction, which is honestly probably most people’s first reaction, was to wonder what is the catch.

No catch.  Other than the cost of the SIM and/or phone, the service is free.  You can call and text, but no data is provided.  How is it free?  Simple - they put ads in the app.  No hidden fees or overage costs from what I could tell.

So of course, I ordered a SIM.  I have no real need for a spare line, but I wanted to try it out just to see how it worked.  Once the SIM arrived, I popped it in my OnePlus 8T.  After a few reboots, and setting up the APN settings (which are on their website) it was working.  You can send/receive text messages, and make voice calls.  You have to use the TextNow app, so you can’t use the native SMS app or dialer but I don’t see an issue with that.  I had no problems with the test calls and texts that I did.

Here are the main points I noticed about the TextNow services:

Free / Low cost: If you don’t have a phone, they have options you can buy.  If you have a compatible phone, you just need to purchase a SIM which was $5 when I did it.  No monthly cost - at all - for the “Nationwide Talk & Text” plan with ads.

No data: The free service does not provide any data, but most people have access to wi-fi and you can do many offline things to store content on your device.  If you want to pay $19.99 a month, you can get 2GB high speed data and then I think it goes to low speed (2G).  For parents this is great - no overage charge because your child used too much data.  I always hate seeing cell providers who either automatically charge you more when you go over the data limit (like they are doing you a favor).  TextNow still has limits on how much 2G you can use on their website under "2G Fair Use Policy".

Starter cell service: If you have someone who wants/needs the ability to call and text while they are away from wifi, this is a great free option and the only one I am aware of that includes cell coverage.

Number re-use: If your number goes inactive, sooner or later TextNow will reclaim your number.  You can pay about $5 a year to lock in your number which might make sense if this is a spare-standby phone, but if the primary user is going to use it actively then no need to pay.

Bottom line: The “Nationwide Talk & Text” with ads is a great free option to provide call and text features.  The TextNow website does a great job of explaining how things work, and any limitations with the service.

NOTE: If you plan to use your own phone, make sure you check two things:

1) Make sure it is compatible with TextNow.  You can go to their site ( https://www.textnow.com/wireless/device-checker ) and put in your IMEI to find out.

2) Make sure your phone is “network unlocked” allowing you to use it on any cell network.  On recent phones, there is often an unlock app or option in the settings.  This page has some good information as a starting point ( https://www.consumerreports.org/smartphones/how-to-unlock-your-phone-from-any-major-carrier/ )

TextNow website: https://www.textnow.com/

Argon ONE Case - Upgrading Original to V2

Disclosure of Material Connection: I received the Argon ONE V2 product for free. I was not required to write a review. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission's requirements.

I recently upgraded from an Argon ONE (original) to the Argon ONE V2.  A wrote a separate article (link at the end of this one) sharing my thoughts about the case, and the upgrade, in this article I am just sharing some pics and thoughts of moving my Pi 4 from the old to new case.

I set everything out ( the old case, new case and a few tools) and got started.

Left: Original
Right: V2 still in box

Top: V2 (without Pi)
Bottom: Original (with Pi)

As you can see above, the cases are very similar.  The main physical difference is the HDMI port size (the V2 has full-size ports) and the power button moved.  Other than that, everything else looks the same on the outside.

Pi 4 in the original Argon ONE case

Someone of the material from the silicon thermal pad.

The silicon thermal pad from one chip and a little bit of
another the other chip stayed on the heat sink side

Once the Pi 4 was removed from the original Argon ONE case, I had to clean up some of the old silicon thermal pad material.  It didn't stick to anything really, not like glue, so it was just a matter of carefully taking it off and cleaning up the area.  Make sure no small pieces fall off, you probably don't want little pieces causing problems.

Video/Audio PCB Extender - From original case

Video/Audio PCB Extender - From V2 case

Pi4, both cases, and a few other other items
Left Top/Bottom: Argon ONE (original)
Right Top/bottom: Argon ONE case (V2)

The original case has a  power mode jumper, but no IR items.

The V2 has a power mode jumper and IR IN.

Both the boards have a jumper so you can set the power mode.  I kept mine in the default setting (where you have to hit the power button to turn it on), but I believe the "always on" option is best if you plan to use your Pi 4 as a server or network device and you want to ensure it turns on after a power outage.

I didn't follow directions, but it worked.

The directions have you place both silicon thermal pads on the case/heatsink side, but I decided to place them directly on the chip.  Also both pads are the same size, but I cut a little material off one to match the chip it was going on.  I really wanted to make sure the pads lined up directly over the chip, but this is probably just a situation where I was over thinking things.

I finished putting everything together, put the MicroSD card back in and had my Pi 4 back up and running with no problem.

If you haven't seen my review of the case, go check it out:

https://bigboystoys13.blogspot.com/2021/09/argon-one-v2-case-review.html

Argon ONE V2 Case Review

Disclosure of Material Connection: I received the Argon ONE V2 product for free. I was not required to write a review. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission's requirements.

Before I get into sharing my thoughts on the Argon ONE V2, I think it is important to give my thoughts on the original Argon ONE.

Back in September 2020, I purchased the original Argon ONE case for my Raspberry Pi 4.  I really wasn't doing much hardware tinkering with my Raspberry Pi 4 ( I had other things like Arduino boards for that ) so most of what I was doing on the Pi was related to trying out different software.  Of course my Rasperry Pi 4 had a case, but I think it was just a generic plastic one.  I started to research various options to add a fan to my Pi 4, and I ended up settling on the Argon ONE case.  Not only did it give me a fan, but it gave me a nice case and a power button - all for a reasonable cost.

I have used the case for a year, I wanted to share my thoughts on the original Argon ONE case:

• It has a power button.  I know this seems simple, but I really got tired of having to plug and unplug the power from my Pi 4.  I even started looking at options like a USB-C cable with on/off switch, or a way to control the power to the actual A/C power adapter.  If you keep your Pi 4 on the time this is less of an issue, but if you turn it on/off often you will know how annoying it is.  The fact your OS can likely interact with the button makes it even nicer, since you can safely power it off.
• It has a fan, which can be controlled using software.  Ultimately the case itself does a pretty good job of doing passive cooling, but having a fan was a good "future proofing" if I ever ran projects that would need it.
• All the ports are on the back of the device, which just makes it easier to connect wires if you move it around often and gives it a very clean look on your desk or if you plan to use it near your TV for entertainment.
• MicroSD slot is accessible from the front, making it easy to swap memory cards (to run different operating systems for example) from the front of the unit.  Again, this is helpful if you have the Pi4 on your desk with the cables out the back and the front (with MicroSD slot) facing you.
• GPIO pins are accessible on the top of the unit, in case you do projects that need them.  If you are not using them, a nice cover that attaches with magnets goes over the ports given the unit a nice clean look.
• It has an internal jumper you can use to set it an "always on" mode so the Pi would turn on after a power outage, or you can leave the default setting that requires using the power button.

Overall, I was very happy with my purchase of the original Argon ONE case.  The Argon ONE case was upgraded to V2, which I think brings some nice improvements to the product.  Here are the key differences:

• Full size HDMI ports instead of micro-HDMI.  The original Argon ONE case had micro-HDMI ports, which means I had to purchase cables with the right connectors since I didn't already own any.  Chances are, most people already have full size HDMI cables.
• IR receiver.  While I don't have the official remote, from reading the product documentation it looks like you can use it to control power on/off and also control the interface on certain systems like LibreELEC.  If you plan to use your Pi4, the Argon ONE V2 with remote would be a great option to look into.

The vendor (Argon40) also has many other interesting products on their page including an Argon ONE M.2 Case ( or Argon ONE M.2 Expansion Board for an existing Argon ONE case ) that allows you to use a M.2 SATA SSD with your Argon ONE case.

I did another post with some pics I took when I moved the Pi 4 from the old to new case, so if you want to see some hardware pics or plan to upgrade your own original to V2 check it out:

https://bigboystoys13.blogspot.com/2021/09/argon-one-case-upgrading-original-to-v2.html

Bottom line: The Argon ONE case was a great purchase, and the V2 upgrade just takes a great product and makes it even better.

Argon40 Products related to the Argon ONE

Argon ONE V2 Case: https://www.argon40.com/argon-one-v-2-case-for-raspberry-pi-5.html

Argon ONE M.2 Case: https://www.argon40.com/argon-one-m-2-case-for-raspberry-pi-4.html

Argon ONE M.2 Expansion Board (for existing case): https://www.argon40.com/argon-one-m-2-expansion-board.html

Argon IR Remote: https://www.argon40.com/argon-ir-remote-for-argon-one-v2-and-m-2-cases.html

Yubikey - Using Yubico Authenticator

This post is focused on setting up your accounts to use Yubico Authenticator on a Yubikey.  If you are looking to add your Yubikey as a hardware token / security key, check out my other post ( https://bigboystoys13.blogspot.com/2021/09/yubikey-adding-security-key-to-your.html ).  If you don't have a Yubikey yet, you might want to check out this post instead ( https://bigboystoys13.blogspot.com/2021/09/yubikeys-quick-review.html ).

The Yubico Authenticator works similar to many other Authenticator apps like Google Authenticator, Microsoft Authenticator and many others offer.  A main difference with Yubico's option is that the information is stored on your Yubikey, not on your computer or other device.  Of course remember this also means if you lose your Yubikey you lose that authentication option so always make sure you have alternate / backup options.

Before you start setting up accounts

- Make a list of the accounts you want to setup.  It helps to keep track in case you lose your Yubikey or need to change your setup later.

- If you have more than one hardware token, have them all ready.

- Give each key a unique nickname, in case you need to remove/disable it later.  If the devices have different colors or are different models that makes it easy.  If you have two of the same device, maybe use part of the serial # or use stickers to tell them apart.  The nickname can be based on where you store it (Safe, Keychain) whatever makes sense to you even a year or two later.

- Make sure you setup the Yubico Authenticator on the device you plan to use for setting up your accounts.  I would recommend you consider adding a password (on Android you can go to the 3 dots and choose "Change password" to require a password to access the codes).

TIP: If you are setting up two Yubikeys, you could do the setup of one on one device (computer for example) and the other on another device (your phone for example).  It will keep you from having to swap keys on a single device.

Steps to setup Yubico Authenticator

1) Go into your account settings and then security settings.  Here are some sample steps for various sites:

PayPal: Settings > Security > 2-step verification

Amazon: Account > Login & Security > Two-Step Verification (2SV) Settings

If you can't find the option in your settings area search the support/help area of your page or contact support for the site.

2) Find the option to add an authenticator app, normally it will show a QR code that you can scan.  Once you scan the QR code, you should get a code that changes every minute or so in your Authenticator app.  If you are using two devices at the same time you can visually compare the generated codes to make sure they are the same otherwise, once you are done setting everything up it would be good to test each Yubikey that you configured.  I did notice that sometimes I had to swipe down in the app to get the code to refresh.

3) You might want to consider disabling the SME/text message option, go check out my other post ( https://bigboystoys13.blogspot.com/2021/09/yubikey-adding-security-key-to-your.html ) near the end section 4 explains a little more about this.

Useful Yubico Links:

Yubico Authenticator - https://www.yubico.com/products/yubico-authenticator/

Yubikey - Adding security key to your account

This post is focused on adding your Yubikey as a hardware token / security key to your account.  It does not cover setting up other options.  If you are looking to setup Yubio Authenticator, check out my other post ( https://bigboystoys13.blogspot.com/2021/09/yubikey-using-yubico-authenticator.html ).  If you don't have a Yubikey yet, you might want to check out this post instead ( https://bigboystoys13.blogspot.com/2021/09/yubikeys-quick-review.html ).

Before you start setting up accounts:

- Make a list of the accounts you want to setup multi-factor authentication (MFA) on.  It helps to keep track in case you lose your Yubikey or need to add a backup.

- If you have more than one hardware token, have them all ready.

- Give each key a unique nickname, in case you need to remove/disable it later.  If the devices have different colors or are different models that makes it easy.  If you have two of the same device, maybe use part of the serial # or use stickers to tell them apart.  The nickname can be based on where you store it (Safe, Keychain) whatever makes sense to you even a year or two later.

Steps to setup the hardware tokens.  These basic steps work with many services ( Google, Microsoft, Facebook, Twitter, and Yahoo for example ).

1) Go into your account settings and then security settings.  Here are some sample steps for various sites:

- Google: From Gmail, click your icon in the top right and choose "Manage your Google Account".  In there click "Security" and go to "2-Step Verification".

- Microsoft. From www.microsoft.com, click your icon in the top right and then choose "My Microsoft Account".  Then click "Security" and "additional security options".

- Facebook: Go to the "Settings & Privacy" menu in the top right, then "Settings".  Next go to "Security and Login" and look for the "Two-Factor Authentication" section.

If you can't find the option search the support/help area of your page or contact support for the site.

2) Find the option to add a security key / add a new way to sign in and add your token.  Do this with each token you have.

3) Look at other backup options, especially if you only have one key.  Examples:

- Authenticator app: There are many options - Google and Microsoft have an option, so does Yubico itself and many other options are out there.  This is a good option, but remember if you lose your phone you lose the app with it.  If you plan to keep your key with you that is a problem (since you could lose both items at the same time), but if you plan to keep the token in a safe using the Authenticator app on your phone might be ok.  You could setup Yubico Authenticator on your Yubikey, but the whole point is that you want a backup if you lose Yubikey.  Yubico Authenticator on a token isn't a backup if it is on the same exact token.

- Backup codes: One time use codes that you can put somewhere, maybe print them and put them in a safe.  However don't put it in the same safe you have a spare Yubikey.

4) This might be a good time to disable SMS/text messages/voice calls as an option.  If you Google search "is SMS MFA secure" you will see many articles addressing issues with SMS, and since you have a hardware token as better option might as well get rid of the weaker link.  If you felt SMS was good enough, you probably wouldn't be using or researching a hardware token.

Yubikey - Quick Review

This is just going to be a (sort of) quick, high level, review of a two Yubico products and some other hopefully helpful tips.  I sort of laid things out as if someone was asking me questions.

What is a Yubikey?

For now I am going to avoid explaining terms like dual-factor authentication, or multi-factor authentication because if you are reading this post you are probably somewhat familiar and interested.  The Yubikey is a hardware token you can use for authentication.  Yubico itself has a "Why Yubico" page ( https://www.yubico.com/why-yubico/for-individuals/ ) with some good high level information about their products.  There are other products out there, I personally decided to go with Yubikey devices but do your own research.

Do I really need one?

Simply put, a hardware token can help protect your online accounts against compromise.  How bad would it be if your online accounts were taken over - not just that someone logged into your account, but they took control of it or erased everything?  Don't forget your e-mail account is often used to gain access to other accounts, so one compromised e-mail account could lead to an even larger impact.  Don't focus on the cost of the device, focus on the impacts you are avoiding.

Which one should I get?

With Yubico, I mainly looked at two options - Security Key NFC and Yubikey 5 series.  This my quick summary of the two options:

1) The Security Key NFC just has one option, that includes NFC and USB-A.  It supports common protocols like U2F and FIDO2, and works with many common providers like Google, Microsoft and Facebook.  Chances are you use at least one of those services.  The device is water and crush resistant, and does not require batteries.

2) The Yubikey 5 Series adds many other options above what the Security Key NFC provides.  Here are a few examples:

• In addition to FIDO2 and U2F, these also support additional protocols like Smart card, OTP and OpenPGP 3
• Multiple interface options ( USB-A, USB-C, NFC and Lightning ) and device styles
• IP68 rated: dust tight and water submersible

Yubico has a quiz ( https://www.yubico.com/quiz/ ) that walks you through the process of picking the best option, and you can also check the catalog of sites that work with YubiKey ( https://www.yubico.com/works-with-yubikey/catalog/ ) to see if your service is supported.  I am not sure the quiz would actually even suggest the Security Key NFC - even when I picked simple options it didn't come up.  This page ( https://www.yubico.com/store/compare/ ) has a good comparison of the various products.

Do I really need a spare?

The quiz does ask if you want to get a spare device.  Imagine if you had a safe with 1 set of keys.  If you lost the key there would be no way to get into the safe.  A second hardware token isn't exactly a crazy idea, but in many cases you can also use other methods as a second authentication option so it isn't required.  No matter what, make sure your plans account for the fact your hardware token could be lost or damaged.  Some accounts let you print "one time use" codes, or provide other authentication options you can consider.

If cost is a factor, the Security Key NFC by Yubico is going to get you into this at a cheaper cost ( around $25 ).  However the Yubikey 5 series has more connector options and supported protocols, and is probably the better option for a tech savvy user that might want to try out some of the additional features.

What did you get and why?

Personally I ended up getting the Security Key NFC as my first device to get my hands on a hardware token, at some point you have to stop reading about it and just go for it.  For the simple use case of tying my accounts to a hardware token, the Security Key NFC did the job but the geek in me wanted to try out the 5 Series since it has extra features.

Yubico Authenticator is one of the features that works on the 5 series but doesn't work on the Security Key NFC.  I tested it out with a few accounts, just to see how it works.  If you already use apps like Microsoft or Google's Authenticator app on Android, then the Yubico app will be very familiar.  I did notice that the Android app does not seem to work on a Chromebook via USB-C, at least when I tested it.  The big difference between Yubico's app and other apps I have seen is that the information is stored on your Yubico token making it easy to move between devices, but I believe there is a limit on the number of accounts.  This page ( https://support.yubico.com/hc/en-us/articles/4404456942738-FAQ#what-is-the-yubikey-s-account-limit- ) you can find information about various limits.

As I mentioned earlier, the Yubikey 5 series has multiple connectors and form factors.  I went with Yubikey 5C with USB-C for future proofing since more devices use USB-C, but I also purchased USB-C to USB-A adapter from Syntech which so far has worked fine on a Windows laptop that only has USB-A ports.  For now I plan to keep my Security Key NFC as the "backup" device, and the Yubikey 5C as one I use to test out some of the new features.

I got one, now what?

If you decide to get a Yubikey, check out these other posts of mine that might help with some tips on setting it up:

Yubikey - Adding security key to your account

https://bigboystoys13.blogspot.com/2021/09/yubikey-adding-security-key-to-your.html

Yubikey - Using Yubico Authenticator 

https://bigboystoys13.blogspot.com/2021/09/yubikey-using-yubico-authenticator.html

Useful Yubico Links:

Authentication Standards - https://www.yubico.com/authentication-standards/

Security Key NFC - https://www.yubico.com/products/security-key/

Yubikey 5 Series - https://www.yubico.com/products/yubikey-5-overview/

Device comparison - https://www.yubico.com/store/compare/

Quiz to see which device is best for you - https://www.yubico.com/quiz/

Catalog of services that work with Yubikey - https://www.yubico.com/works-with-yubikey/catalog/?sort=popular

Yubico Authenticator - https://www.yubico.com/products/yubico-authenticator/

OpenWrt on RAVPower RP-WD03

WARNING: Once I put OpenWrt on my FileHub Plus, I couldn't restore back to the original firmware.  I am not saying it is impossible, I just couldn't find any working directions.

Recently, I decided that I wanted to play around with OpenWrt  I was aware of it, but never really took the time to try it out.  I had a RAVPower RP-WD03 travel router that I really wasn't using, and it seemed like a good starting point.  I didn't take detailed notes unfortunately, so this post will just be a high level summary.  Also this information was current as of 8/17/2021, but as time goes on of course some of it might change.

Using the directions in the OpenWrt Wiki ( https://openwrt.org/toh/ravpower/rp-wd03 ) I was able to get OpenWrt installed.  I ended up using a snapshot build, which didn't have LuCI installed so I had to figure that part out.  As a note, the directions under the "Installation section" shows two files being renamed to kernel and rootfs, but when you look lower in the "OEM installation using the TFTP method" section you will see the file two method is used for snapshot builds and recent releases.  As of right now the latest stable build is 19.07.8, you can grab the correct file using the firmware selector ( https://firmware-selector.openwrt.org/ ).  You end up renaming that one file to "kernel" when you share it via TFTP, instead of the two file method for snapshot builds.

While getting familiar with OpenWrt, I started to play around with adding software and quickly ran into space issues since the WD03 only has 8MB of storage.  At that point, I set the WD03 aside and shifted my attention to getting OpenWrt working on my Raspberry Pi 4.  I might pull together another post later on that.

Once I was a bit more comfortable with OpenWrt, I decided that I needed to do something with the WD03.  I tried my best to restore the original factory image, but despite following the directions I could find online nothing worked.  For some reason I had it in my mind that the low RAM was the issue, but then I remembered it was the storage space not the RAM.  Next thing I did was start to read up on what I could safely remove from OpenWrt.  It turns out that, due to the way OpenWrt uses SqashFS you don't really save space just by deleting files.  The best option to save space on OpenWrt is to do a custom image.

So making a custom image was my next focus, as always first step was to read up on it a bit.  The OpenWrt Wiki ( https://openwrt.org/docs/guide-user/additional-software/imagebuilder ) again was very helpful.  I used those directions, and the information on saving space ( https://openwrt.org/docs/guide-user/additional-software/saving_space ) to setup a custom build for my WD03.  It worked great, and best part is while I am messing around with the WD03 if I decide to reset things my custom build already has LuCI installed so I am ready to go right from the start.  I even set it so the OpenWrt wi-fi access point was on by default so I could easily connect and change settings.  I would probably avoid putting anything too specific in your custom build, for example don't save your home wi-fi password since one day you might get rid of your device and you don't want certain information saved on the device even after a reset.

Overall, if you are looking to play around with OpenWrt then go for it - just make sure you read directions carefully, and understand you could mess up your device if you are not careful.  I don't think I can get my WD03 back to stock firmware, but I am ok with that.  Of course, having an understanding of things like networking and linux commands is very helpful, but I am guessing the type of person who is interested in OpenWrt is probably familiar enough with those concepts or willing to learn.

Useful links from this article:

• https://openwrt.org/toh/ravpower/rp-wd03
• https://firmware-selector.openwrt.org/
• https://openwrt.org/docs/guide-user/additional-software/imagebuilder
• https://openwrt.org/docs/guide-user/additional-software/saving_space

OnePlus 8T hotspot and tether

I recently upgraded my phone from a Samsung S9+ to a OnePlus 8T thanks to a pretty good T-Mobile trade-in deal.  So far I have been happy with my OnePlus 8T, but based on my research I knew that I would lose the ability to share a wi-fi connection.

For anyone that has not used wi-fi sharing on Samsung (or other devices that support it) basically you use your phone to connect to wi-fi, then you turn on your phone hotspot feature to share your connection to other devices.  Why would you do this?  Here are a few possible scenarios that it could help:

1) On travel, you might have devices that do not work well with wi-fi connections that direct to a login page (hotels for example).

2) On travel, out of just being lazy, you rather not configure multiple devices (laptops, tablets for kids, game systems).

Really the why is not important.  In my case, the important thing is that the OnePlus 8T does not support this feature.  When you are connected to wi-fi and try to enable your mobile hotspot, your wi-fi connection is turned off.  However, when I was looking at my OnePlus 8T options I noticed an interesting option labeled "Ethernet tethering" which got me interested in exactly what I could do.  Luckily I happened to have a HooToo USB-C hub ( HT-UC011 ) with an Ethernet connector.  So, to get right into it here are a few connectivity options I tested.

Laptop > USB-C hub (Ethernet) >  OnePlus 8T (Wi-Fi)

So this was a simple setup.  I used an ethernet cable to connect a laptop to the HooToo USB-C hub, which was connected to my OnePlus 8T.  The OnePlus 8T was connected to my home internet using wifi, and the "Ethernet tethering" option was turned on.  Using this setup, I was able to get online.  I used the Fast app (and fast.com website) and the download speeds were exactly the same and upload was about 0.3 Mbps faster on the phone.  The unloaded latency went from 13ms on the phone to 25ms on the laptop.  One quick note, my laptop was setup to DHCP and I didn't have to do any manual configuration for things like IP address or DNS.

Laptop > USB-C hub (Ethernet) > OnePlus 8T (Cellular)

Since I basically had everything setup from the prior test, I disabled wi-fi on my phone so it would go to cellular signal.  On my T-Mobile plan I have unlimited 3G tether so I knew the speed would take a huge hit.  The laptop Fast.com test got 540 Kbps.

OnePlus 8T > USB-C hub (Ethernet) > Home network

Just to continue testing, I connected USB-C hub to my home wi-fi router using Ethernet.  I also disabled cellular data and w-fi on my phone, and it seems that my phone was using the Ethernet for internet connectivity.

Laptop (Wi-Fi) > OnePlus 8T (Hotspot mode) > USB-C hub (Ethernet) > Home network

Once I was able to get my phone using ethernet for Internet access, I decided to turn on the hotspot mode to see what would happen.  My laptop was able to connect to the wi-fi hotspot, and based on some quick tests it seems that I was using my home network connect to get to the Internet.  Basically my phone was acting like a portable wi-fi router, similar to my RAVPower FileHub.

So that is the testing I have done so far.