Disclosure of Material Connection: I received the Argon ONE V2 product for free. I was not required to write a review. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission's requirements.
I recently upgraded from an Argon ONE (original) to the Argon ONE V2. A wrote a separate article (link at the end of this one) sharing my thoughts about the case, and the upgrade, in this article I am just sharing some pics and thoughts of moving my Pi 4 from the old to new case.
I recently upgraded from an Argon ONE (original) to the Argon ONE V2. A wrote a separate article (link at the end of this one) sharing my thoughts about the case, and the upgrade, in this article I am just sharing some pics and thoughts of moving my Pi 4 from the old to new case.
I set everything out ( the old case, new case and a few tools) and got started.
Left: Original Right: V2 still in box |
Top: V2 (without Pi) Bottom: Original (with Pi) |
As you can see above, the cases are very similar. The main physical difference is the HDMI port size (the V2 has full-size ports) and the power button moved. Other than that, everything else looks the same on the outside.
Pi 4 in the original Argon ONE case |
Someone of the material from the silicon thermal pad. |
The silicon thermal pad from one chip and a little bit of another the other chip stayed on the heat sink side |
Once the Pi 4 was removed from the original Argon ONE case, I had to clean up some of the old silicon thermal pad material. It didn't stick to anything really, not like glue, so it was just a matter of carefully taking it off and cleaning up the area. Make sure no small pieces fall off, you probably don't want little pieces causing problems.
Video/Audio PCB Extender - From original case |
Video/Audio PCB Extender - From V2 case |
Pi4, both cases, and a few other other items Left Top/Bottom: Argon ONE (original) Right Top/bottom: Argon ONE case (V2) |
The original case has a power mode jumper, but no IR items. |
The V2 has a power mode jumper and IR IN. |
Both the boards have a jumper so you can set the power mode. I kept mine in the default setting (where you have to hit the power button to turn it on), but I believe the "always on" option is best if you plan to use your Pi 4 as a server or network device and you want to ensure it turns on after a power outage.
I didn't follow directions, but it worked. |
The directions have you place both silicon thermal pads on the case/heatsink side, but I decided to place them directly on the chip. Also both pads are the same size, but I cut a little material off one to match the chip it was going on. I really wanted to make sure the pads lined up directly over the chip, but this is probably just a situation where I was over thinking things.
I finished putting everything together, put the MicroSD card back in and had my Pi 4 back up and running with no problem.
If you haven't seen my review of the case, go check it out:
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